Frameless Shower Enclosures

Install hinges on the glass with the screw heads to the INSIDE of the Shower.

Note: For 3/8" glass use two thick gaskets. For 1/2" glass use two thin gaskets. This may vary with the model of hinge. Instructions are included.
Install Hinge on glass first: You will notice when you install the hinge on the glass that it can slide up and down and in and out. Center the hinge in the vertical direction and shoot for 3/16" between glass edge and outer edge of hinge. After tightening down the screws operate the hinge to make sure you have that 3/16" and the glass doesn't hit the base plate of the hinge. If the glass binds, it may explode. (I have to quit saying that)

2. Set the door on the sill on top of shims 7/16" thick. I use wood shingles. Make sure the door is high enough to clear the highest point of the sill by 7/16".

Note: You may want to snap a door sweep made of vinyl onto the bottom of your door after your finished installing the door. So, leave 7/16 between the bottom of the door and the highest point of the sill. Most of the time seals on the sides of the door are not needed.

3. With the door set in the opening and clearance is right on both sides, mark the hole locations for the hinge. A helper is good.

Note: Either a pen, pencil or yellow pencil generally work well.
Side clearance is supposed to be 3/16" but that depends on how rough the tile is. There is considerable room for error. This is where two people are really a big help. I have done it alone. You have to install screws on one side only and then open the door to install the other two screws.

4. Remove the door and improve the marks you have made

Go over the marks, changing the dots into a cross. This is so that you can tell if the drill bit begins to wander.

5. Drill the holes precisely at your mark. Use a regular Drill. A roto-hammer will break the tiles.
Drill through the tile and Cement board but not into the wood. You want the screws to grab the wood stud. Sheet rock doesn't count for anything. The screws are 2" long. If your tile is applied directly to sheet rock, and there is no stud back there, then you're in a heap of trouble. See the note above about studs.

A spade drill bit works best. 1/4 inch. This is included with your shower door. Some tile is extremely hard. The spade drill bit will work but you may need to spray it with water to keep it cool. Get a friend to spray while you lean into the bit. If the spade bit gets too hot the carbide will fall off. Most tile is soft and easy to drill. We bought two or three different kinds of diamond drill bits but they didn't last long at all.

6. Hammer in the Anchors

Use anchors whether or not you hit a stud. The 2" screws will only go into the stud about 1/2" but the presence of the stud strengthens the wall in the neighborhood of the door. The screws and anchor system is strong. Even one screw will hold a heavy door with just an anchor. But don't try it! It may explode.
If you applied the tile directly to sheet rock then I would not recommend a heavy glass shower door.

7. Cut off the part of the anchor that sticks out.

There are two kinds of plastic anchors. Either one works fine. The cylindrical kind, I have found generally will not allow themselves to be pounded in all the way and so they too, need to be chopped off.